An Empirical Prediction of Tm-1,0 on the Reef Flat of Atolls
摘要
Among thousands of atolls in the East Sea, some consists of sandy cores emerging from the reef flats. Extreme wind and waves may exert impacts seriously attacking these cores which are usually very small in the area compared to the reef flats. Therefore, the paper explores wave characteristics and how they propagate on the platform of a representative atoll. We conducted experiments in a 50-m-long wave flume at Thuyloi University, Ha Noi, Vietnam. In general, the period of wave spectral Tm−1,0 would be from one to three times longer than the Tp of deep-water waves. Furthermore, an empirical formula was derived to predict Tm−1, 0.