Effects of Beach Slope on Wave Characteristics in the Surf Zone Over Fringing Reef

Surf zone is an extremely dynamic region which is important to other wave hydrodynamic processes such as non-linear wave interaction, infra-gravity wave formation, wave set-up and decisive in coastal protection work design. This paper presents study on wave characteristics in the surf zone over fringing reef with steep beach slope under monochromatic wave condition conducted in a wave flume at Thuyloi University. Based on cine-photography analysis breaker type, breaker location, breaker wave height, breaker depth and the total surf zone width is determined and discussed. The results show that the relative reef flat submergence (d/H0 in which d denotes flat depth, H0 denotes incoming regular wave height) strongly influences on the breaking properties, albeit, the influence of beach slope is of minimal for the case of ten-meter flat width and beach slope m = 3.