Pineapple (Ananas comosus) is widely cultivated in the region of northeast India. The pineapple plant called Kihom in Manipur (one of the northeast states) is one of the most important crops. According to Imphal Free Press, the state produced 134.82MT of pineapple fruits in 2021–2022 and ranked 6th production-wise in the country. However, only fruits are consumed from this plant and leaves are being wasted after harvesting in the state. These wasted leaves were utilised in this study for preparing yarn to produce handloom textiles. The fibre was extracted from the leaves using decorticators followed by obtaining water, washing and drying. After the process of fibre extraction, scouring was done before yarn preparation. The scoured fibre was spun with the help of motorized charkha fabricated for the spinning of pineapple leaf fibre. The speed of the motorized charkha was maintained at the rate of 200 RPM. Hundred per cent pineapple leaf fibre yarn was obtained using this machine. To enhance the aesthetic value and utility of the prepared yarn, dyeing with local natural dyes was carried out. A total of ten natural sources of dyes from the plant grown in the valley of Manipur were experimented with and used in the dyeing. Among these natural dyes plants, Oroxylum indicum, Cedrela toona, Morus nigra, and Hibiscus sabdariffa were new to the existing knowledge of traditional dyes in Manipur. Testing of colour strength, wash fastness and light fastness were involved. For weaving fabrics from the prepared yarn, traditional textiles of Manipur were selected and weaving traditional motifs with extra weft technique was done. The dyed yarns were experimented with in weaving the extra weft motifs. From the results, good to excellent ratings were observed in the testing of dyed yarn. In addition, Oroxylum indicum and Cedrela toona gave good results compared to the other new dyes Morus nigra and Hibiscus sabdariffa. The use of hundred per cent pineapple leaf fibre yarn as weft was successful in manufacturing traditional textiles very thin and sheer handloom textiles. The yarn made from pineapple leaf fibre can be a sustainable alternative material for making traditional textiles.

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Experimentation of Local Natural Dyes on 100% Pineapple Yarn to Produce Aesthetic Value-Added Textiles

  • Madhu Sharan,
  • Roshini Thangjam

摘要

Pineapple (Ananas comosus) is widely cultivated in the region of northeast India. The pineapple plant called Kihom in Manipur (one of the northeast states) is one of the most important crops. According to Imphal Free Press, the state produced 134.82MT of pineapple fruits in 2021–2022 and ranked 6th production-wise in the country. However, only fruits are consumed from this plant and leaves are being wasted after harvesting in the state. These wasted leaves were utilised in this study for preparing yarn to produce handloom textiles. The fibre was extracted from the leaves using decorticators followed by obtaining water, washing and drying. After the process of fibre extraction, scouring was done before yarn preparation. The scoured fibre was spun with the help of motorized charkha fabricated for the spinning of pineapple leaf fibre. The speed of the motorized charkha was maintained at the rate of 200 RPM. Hundred per cent pineapple leaf fibre yarn was obtained using this machine. To enhance the aesthetic value and utility of the prepared yarn, dyeing with local natural dyes was carried out. A total of ten natural sources of dyes from the plant grown in the valley of Manipur were experimented with and used in the dyeing. Among these natural dyes plants, Oroxylum indicum, Cedrela toona, Morus nigra, and Hibiscus sabdariffa were new to the existing knowledge of traditional dyes in Manipur. Testing of colour strength, wash fastness and light fastness were involved. For weaving fabrics from the prepared yarn, traditional textiles of Manipur were selected and weaving traditional motifs with extra weft technique was done. The dyed yarns were experimented with in weaving the extra weft motifs. From the results, good to excellent ratings were observed in the testing of dyed yarn. In addition, Oroxylum indicum and Cedrela toona gave good results compared to the other new dyes Morus nigra and Hibiscus sabdariffa. The use of hundred per cent pineapple leaf fibre yarn as weft was successful in manufacturing traditional textiles very thin and sheer handloom textiles. The yarn made from pineapple leaf fibre can be a sustainable alternative material for making traditional textiles.