Design Wave Crest Height on Submerged Coral Reefs

The topography of a submerged coral reef is divided into three parts: consisting of a flat reef, a fore slope steep reef, and a deep reef. A depth of a reef flat ranges from few to tens of meters. When waves propagate to the reef crest, most of them will break. This process is often complicated. The difference in wave variability in this reef type is a sudden change in topographic profile from hundreds of meters down to several meters in shallow water. According to many authors, after reef crest zone, there is the formation and development of infragravity waves, combined with short waves, leading to a significant in the mean water surface and a very large wave crest height on the reef flat. This paper presents the results of research on the distribution of wave crest heights on submerged reefs with small water depth (shallow water) by performing physical simulation in a wave flume. The research results will give the new coefficients that fit Weibull’s distribution to predict the wave crest height; this result contributes to appropriate choice of design wave crest height on submerged reef flat.