Building on the performative aspects of identity expression, this chapter focuses on everyday practices—particularly cooking and eating—as key sites of heritage politics. It examines how the preparation of specific dishes and particular eating habits play a crucial role in constructing and performing Baba Nyonya identity. The ways in which Baba Nyonya consciously use culinary practices to distinguish themselves from other (Chinese) groups in Penang illustrate how food becomes deeply entwined with the historical experiences of port city residents and how ‘recourse to the past’ serves as a tool for identity construction. Baba Nyonya cuisine functions as an identity marker not in spite of but precisely because of the diverse influences that have shaped it—highlighting the ability to adapt as a core element of their emic concept of authenticity and the identity of those who prepare and consume it.

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Chicken Kapitan: Knowledge, Ingredients and Adjustment

  • Mareike Pampus

摘要

Building on the performative aspects of identity expression, this chapter focuses on everyday practices—particularly cooking and eating—as key sites of heritage politics. It examines how the preparation of specific dishes and particular eating habits play a crucial role in constructing and performing Baba Nyonya identity. The ways in which Baba Nyonya consciously use culinary practices to distinguish themselves from other (Chinese) groups in Penang illustrate how food becomes deeply entwined with the historical experiences of port city residents and how ‘recourse to the past’ serves as a tool for identity construction. Baba Nyonya cuisine functions as an identity marker not in spite of but precisely because of the diverse influences that have shaped it—highlighting the ability to adapt as a core element of their emic concept of authenticity and the identity of those who prepare and consume it.