The global winterwear market expected to be a USD 359.78 billion business by 2025, is dominated by wool and acrylic fibers with moderate usage of polyester and cotton. Despite being the world's third-largest cotton producer, cotton contributes less than 1% of worldwide winterwear production. The recent advent of knit micro-factory to facilitate reshoring domestic production has the potential to spike knit winterwear production in the US. Therefore, there is a need to focus on enhancing domestic cotton use in winterwear instead of imported wool and non-biodegradable petroleum-based acrylic fiber. This study attempted to investigate the thermal properties of cotton-wool mixed double-face knit structures for winterwear. A pragmatic approach to knit fabric design parameters: stitches, fabric construction, yarn selection, knitting machinery, and the effect of these design parameters on aesthetics, mechanical performance, cost, and overall sustainability of the fabric were examined. Three cotton-wool mixed knit structures: bi-layer, spacer, and net jacquard were designed and knitted using a Stoll® CMS knitting machine (12 gauge). These knitted structures were evaluated for fabric weight, fabric stitch density, fabric thickness, moisture management, air permeability and thermal and evaporative resistance- dry and wet. The net jacquard construction depicted the thickest, better evaporative and thermal resistance, and the lowest air permeability albeit poor Overall Moisture Management Capacity (OMMC). This construction also has the potential to significantly reduce costs as the average price of wool is $4/lb compared to cotton at $0.66/lb.

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A Comparative Analysis of Thermal Properties of Double-face Cotton-Wool Knit Structures

  • Md Imranul Islam,
  • Ajoy K. Sarkar

摘要

The global winterwear market expected to be a USD 359.78 billion business by 2025, is dominated by wool and acrylic fibers with moderate usage of polyester and cotton. Despite being the world's third-largest cotton producer, cotton contributes less than 1% of worldwide winterwear production. The recent advent of knit micro-factory to facilitate reshoring domestic production has the potential to spike knit winterwear production in the US. Therefore, there is a need to focus on enhancing domestic cotton use in winterwear instead of imported wool and non-biodegradable petroleum-based acrylic fiber. This study attempted to investigate the thermal properties of cotton-wool mixed double-face knit structures for winterwear. A pragmatic approach to knit fabric design parameters: stitches, fabric construction, yarn selection, knitting machinery, and the effect of these design parameters on aesthetics, mechanical performance, cost, and overall sustainability of the fabric were examined. Three cotton-wool mixed knit structures: bi-layer, spacer, and net jacquard were designed and knitted using a Stoll® CMS knitting machine (12 gauge). These knitted structures were evaluated for fabric weight, fabric stitch density, fabric thickness, moisture management, air permeability and thermal and evaporative resistance- dry and wet. The net jacquard construction depicted the thickest, better evaporative and thermal resistance, and the lowest air permeability albeit poor Overall Moisture Management Capacity (OMMC). This construction also has the potential to significantly reduce costs as the average price of wool is $4/lb compared to cotton at $0.66/lb.