Dimensional Stability of Leather for Shoe Uppers Depending on the Tanning Method and Moulding Conditions
摘要
To model the process of forming a shoe upper on a last, the influence on the form stability of leathers for shoe uppers of various conditions of their tanning, as well as the conditions of formation and fixation of the spatial form, was investigated. The ability to form and retain the shape of footwear is laid down during the formation of the leather structure at the production stage. Since the most responsible process for forming the dermis structure is the tanning process, the form-fastness of leathers using different tanning methods—chrome, vegetable, synthetic, and aldehyde—was analysed. It has been established that chrome-tanned leathers demonstrate the highest rate of shape stability (92%). In contrast, the leathers of other methods show lower, although relatively high, shape stability (82–89%). High form stability of leathers for footwear uppers of different tanning methods is achieved under conditions of moisture-heat treatment: with moistening before the technological moulding operation by at least 5% and a thermal fixation temperature of no more than 80 °C.