Wave Energetics
摘要
In our introduction to linear wave theory, we briefly mentioned that while Airy (i.e., linear) waves do not transport matter due to the closed orbitals of fluid particles, they do in fact carry energy. This chapter will mathematically demonstrate this principle via the continuity and momentum equations to elucidate the speed at which energy is transported via linear waves. Our solution will also reveal why waves become higher, which eventually leads to breaking, as they approach the shoreline. In addition, understanding the energy content of linear waves is crucial when describing the highly irregular and chaotic sea states frequently observed in nature as will be demonstrated in later chapters.