X-Band and Doppler-Radar Observations of Waves, Currents and Morphologies on a Sandy Beach at the Research Pier Hors
摘要
We use X-Band radar and Doppler radar velocimeter to observe waves, currents, and morphologies on a sandy beach at the research pier HORS facing the Pacific Ocean in Japan. The area is an almost straight coast with fine sands, and a 400 m-long research pier is installed on the beach. X-Band radar is an imaging radar that can capture wave propagations and run-ups. A Doppler radar velocimeter is installed at the pier deck to estimate the current variation in the longshore. We detected the longshore migration of coastal morphological features, like shoals, troughs, and beach cusps, in the surf zone from the X-Band radar observation and compared it with the variation of the longshore current. Results for twelve months show that coastal features migrate to the downflows depending on the longshore current direction and speed. We expect this to serve as a proxy signal of longshore sediment motion.