Throughout history, jewelry has transcended its role as mere adornment to become a multidisciplinary, meaningful-rich field. It serves as a form of communication, expressing identity, personality, and freedom of choice, while also conveying symbolic, social, economic, religious, and cultural values. Technological advancements and the discovery of noble metals have established jewelry as a symbol of status and preciousness, with its value linked to the rarity, scarcity, and durability of its materials. However, a new paradigm is emerging in contemporary jewelry, challenging the notion that a piece's value resides solely in its material composition. This chapter aims to reconceptualize contemporary jewelry in relation to its materials, processes, styles, meanings, and its connection to society. The current movement emphasizes design, conceptual integrity, and sustainability, creating opportunities for the use of unconventional materials and non-traditional processes. This approach reflects a society that is increasingly aware of environmental, social, and ethical issues. Although contemporary jewelry extends beyond traditional luxury, highlighting the traceability of materials, transparency in the production chain, and the well-being of the wearer, pertinent questions regarding the definition of jewelry are addressed. A brief timeline is presented to illustrate the developments that led to the boom in contemporary jewelry, culminating in a discussion of how material and symbolic variability continues to raise questions about its sustainability within society. Contemporary jewelry, therefore, represents a universe of possibilities that celebrates creativity, ethical values, and critical reflection, challenging historical constraints and redefining what is truly valuable, enduring, and lasting.

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Contemporary Jewelry Redefined

  • Mariana Kuhl Cidade

摘要

Throughout history, jewelry has transcended its role as mere adornment to become a multidisciplinary, meaningful-rich field. It serves as a form of communication, expressing identity, personality, and freedom of choice, while also conveying symbolic, social, economic, religious, and cultural values. Technological advancements and the discovery of noble metals have established jewelry as a symbol of status and preciousness, with its value linked to the rarity, scarcity, and durability of its materials. However, a new paradigm is emerging in contemporary jewelry, challenging the notion that a piece's value resides solely in its material composition. This chapter aims to reconceptualize contemporary jewelry in relation to its materials, processes, styles, meanings, and its connection to society. The current movement emphasizes design, conceptual integrity, and sustainability, creating opportunities for the use of unconventional materials and non-traditional processes. This approach reflects a society that is increasingly aware of environmental, social, and ethical issues. Although contemporary jewelry extends beyond traditional luxury, highlighting the traceability of materials, transparency in the production chain, and the well-being of the wearer, pertinent questions regarding the definition of jewelry are addressed. A brief timeline is presented to illustrate the developments that led to the boom in contemporary jewelry, culminating in a discussion of how material and symbolic variability continues to raise questions about its sustainability within society. Contemporary jewelry, therefore, represents a universe of possibilities that celebrates creativity, ethical values, and critical reflection, challenging historical constraints and redefining what is truly valuable, enduring, and lasting.