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This study investigated the formation and migration processes of beach scarps under varying wave heights through physical wave flume experiments. The experimental results demonstrated that wave shoaling induces vertical velocity gradients, triggering plunging breakers. Turbulent flow from breaking waves transported sediment shoreward, while backwash scouring initiated scarp formation. Scarp migration exhibited a chain reaction involving basal notch incision, upper sediment tensile cracking, collapse, and sediment transport. The scarp migration rate and morphological evolution showed nonlinear responses to wave height variations: As wave height increased from 8 cm to 12 cm, shoreline retreat rates displayed a “fast-slow-fast” pattern (0.65 → 0.3 → 0.6 cm/min), scarp height growth rate decreased from 0.25 cm/min to 0.2 cm/min, indicating a negative feedback regulation mechanism. High waves (12 cm) promoted longshore erosion and sandbar lateral extension, whereas low waves (8 cm) dominated vertical erosion. These findings advance the understanding of coastal morphodynamic responses.

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Physical Experimental Study on the Development Process of Beach Scarps under Regular Waves

  • 会议论文

  • 发表日期：

    2026年

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  • Yuan Chen,
  • Yingsheng Yu

摘要

This study investigated the formation and migration processes of beach scarps under varying wave heights through physical wave flume experiments. The experimental results demonstrated that wave shoaling induces vertical velocity gradients, triggering plunging breakers. Turbulent flow from breaking waves transported sediment shoreward, while backwash scouring initiated scarp formation. Scarp migration exhibited a chain reaction involving basal notch incision, upper sediment tensile cracking, collapse, and sediment transport. The scarp migration rate and morphological evolution showed nonlinear responses to wave height variations: As wave height increased from 8 cm to 12 cm, shoreline retreat rates displayed a “fast-slow-fast” pattern (0.65 → 0.3 → 0.6 cm/min), scarp height growth rate decreased from 0.25 cm/min to 0.2 cm/min, indicating a negative feedback regulation mechanism. High waves (12 cm) promoted longshore erosion and sandbar lateral extension, whereas low waves (8 cm) dominated vertical erosion. These findings advance the understanding of coastal morphodynamic responses.