The Clinical Effectiveness of a Spent Coffee Grounds Formulation on the Skin Barrier Function and Hydration in Healthy Volunteers
摘要
Given the growing concern for the environmental impact of cosmetic products, the research focuses on the circular economy and the possibility of replacing synthetic abrasives with natural alternatives such as coffee grounds. The study aimed to examine the efficacy of coffee grounds scrub formulation on skin barrier function and improvement of skin hydration. Skin barrier function and hydration were assessed by instrumental measurement of transepidermal water loss (TEWL) using a VapoMeter® closed-chamber device (Delfin Technologies Ltd, Finland) on five established sites on the left and right forearms over 5 time points. Four SCG formulations (unguent 5%, emulsion 5%, emulsion 10% and gel) and control were evaluated. The study was conducted as an in-house, double-blind, randomized clinical trial conducted at the University of Sarajevo – Faculty of Pharmacy following the principles of the Declaration of Helsinki. The Ethical Committee of the University of Sarajevo – Faculty of Pharmacy approved the research protocols (approval number: 0101/6837/24). A total of 20 participants (4 male and 16 female, aged 18 – 65) with no history of dermatological diseases were included in the study. All individuals provided written informed consent before their involvement. The results indicated a temporary increase in TEWL, where the intensity of this increase depends on the type of formulation. The unguent with 5% coffee grounds (F1) proved to be the mildest because the fatty base protected the skin, while the emulsion with the same percentage of coffee (F2) showed a slight increase in TEWL due to the combined effect of hydration and protection. Emulsion with 10% coffee grounds (F3) caused the greatest increase in TEWL, which suggests stronger mechanical exfoliation and greater disruption of the skin barrier. The gel formulation (F4), although it hydrates the skin in the long term, did not provide immediate protection after peeling, resulting in a high TEWL value immediately after the treatment. After applying the moisturizing cream, the TEWL values gradually decreased, which confirms the regenerative effect of hydration on the restoration of the skin barrier. This instrumental method proved to be an efficient tool for assessing transepidermal water loss and allowed a detailed insight into how different SCG formulations affect the skin.