Consumed by Fear: Urban Anxieties About Eating and Drinking in the Long Nineteenth Century
摘要
Compared to the early modern period, modern urban consumers were less concerned with the quantity and more concerned with the quality of the food and drink they increasingly purchased in the marketplace. Nineteenth-century consumers, however, struggled to come to terms with their increasing dependence on the market for food, worried about how to protect themselves and their families from foods that seemed to be more excessive, adulterated, contaminated, and processed, and agonized over how to deal with the foreign foods and ethnic cuisines that they increasingly encountered in an age of global trade and high imperialism. Much of the advice to which these consumers were exposed came from a growing coterie of opinion-makers. Priests, reformers, scientists, journalists, social movements, corporations, and the state all pointed to problems in modern diets and offered consumers various solutions for coping with the expanding range of food choices. They urged consumers to turn to simple and natural diets, to equip themselves with scientific knowledge and tools to distinguish between good and bad foods, and to resist foreign foods and cuisines. Such advice, the chapter shows, could sometimes exacerbate rather than alleviate food fears. Many of the food anxieties that the chapter characterizes and analyzes have persisted into the present, and the investigation draws on recent historical research to illuminate how modern food anxieties date back to the long nineteenth century and were intensified in that century.