This paper argues that there has been a recent “folkloric turn” in contemporary fashion, by analyzing Irish designer Simone Rocha’s AW23 collection “Lughnasadh.” Drawing on a theoretical framework informed by Walter Benjamin’s ideas on time, this work of applied theory decodes the material and symbolic expressions of Irish heritage and identity that can be seen on the runway in 2023. This paper posits that the contemporary folkloric turn is a response to the increased globalization and secularization of Western culture in an era of digital capitalism, which produces an aesthetic interest in the “traditional” beliefs, customs, and histories of a given community. While folklore’s commercialization raises questions of authenticity, this paper argues that its presence in fashion offers an alternative way of engaging with “fashion time” that fosters sustainability and deeper engagement with cultural heritage.

错误:搜索内容不能为空,请输入英文关键词
错误:关键词超出字数限制,请精简
高级检索

From Rituals to Runways: Theorizing the Folkloric Turn in Contemporary Fashion Through Simone Rocha’s “Lughnasadh”

  • Aoife Murray

摘要

This paper argues that there has been a recent “folkloric turn” in contemporary fashion, by analyzing Irish designer Simone Rocha’s AW23 collection “Lughnasadh.” Drawing on a theoretical framework informed by Walter Benjamin’s ideas on time, this work of applied theory decodes the material and symbolic expressions of Irish heritage and identity that can be seen on the runway in 2023. This paper posits that the contemporary folkloric turn is a response to the increased globalization and secularization of Western culture in an era of digital capitalism, which produces an aesthetic interest in the “traditional” beliefs, customs, and histories of a given community. While folklore’s commercialization raises questions of authenticity, this paper argues that its presence in fashion offers an alternative way of engaging with “fashion time” that fosters sustainability and deeper engagement with cultural heritage.