This chapter, based on ethnographic research among South Korean proprietors of rice cake (tteok) manufacturing shops, discusses and analyses how rice cake producers relate to bread (ppang) and bakeries in their discourses and practices. For them, bread and bakeries are a competing merchandise and sector as well as a relatable branch of small-scale food production, in which individual skill (gisul) is applied to manufacture a marketable product. Rice and wheat as staple grains, food ingredients, and representatives of culinary traditions are commonly compared and contrasted in South Korean discourses on food, and this is discernible among practitioners in rice cake making. Among them, I find two intertwined narratives on bread and bakeries: first, that of a sector ahead of rice cake making in development and skills, and second, that of the demise of independent bakeries due to the hegemony of corporate chain stores while rice cake makers have been able to withstand such developments. By relating to bread and baking, rice cake makers make sense of their livelihood and product as well as societal and cultural chances that have affected it. For them, bread and bread-making are objects of narration to which experiences, hopes, and anxieties are projected.

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Skills, Tradition, and Modernity: Bread and Bakeries in Narratives of Identity and Practice Among Rice Cake Manufacturers in South Korea

  • Antti Leppänen

摘要

This chapter, based on ethnographic research among South Korean proprietors of rice cake (tteok) manufacturing shops, discusses and analyses how rice cake producers relate to bread (ppang) and bakeries in their discourses and practices. For them, bread and bakeries are a competing merchandise and sector as well as a relatable branch of small-scale food production, in which individual skill (gisul) is applied to manufacture a marketable product. Rice and wheat as staple grains, food ingredients, and representatives of culinary traditions are commonly compared and contrasted in South Korean discourses on food, and this is discernible among practitioners in rice cake making. Among them, I find two intertwined narratives on bread and bakeries: first, that of a sector ahead of rice cake making in development and skills, and second, that of the demise of independent bakeries due to the hegemony of corporate chain stores while rice cake makers have been able to withstand such developments. By relating to bread and baking, rice cake makers make sense of their livelihood and product as well as societal and cultural chances that have affected it. For them, bread and bread-making are objects of narration to which experiences, hopes, and anxieties are projected.