The 1966 Chateau Haut-Brion from Graves shines deep garnet red in the glass, and the sommelier’s nostrils quiver as he smells it. “Stone fruit and raisins, accompanied by cedar wood tones and different spice aromas” is his scent diagnosis. His neighbor, on the other hand, clearly detects plum, flanked by subtle roasting aromas and slightly animalistic tones, while a third expert perceives subtle pipe tobacco, in addition to leather. The impending dispute is settled with a compromise formula: It is a truly great wine, harmonious in its complexity and elegant in the variety of its aromas.