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This chapter discusses the rise of natural wines by focusing on sulfur—which they usually do not contain. As a tool for exercising control, sulfur enables stabilization, improves preservation and storage of wines. Drawing on the example of Vaucluse, in France, I show how these properties applied to wine facilitated the development of social hierarchies and particular forms of judgment during the Modern period. Then, I show that natural wines, which lack these qualities of stability, tend to encourage the development of very different economic, political and aesthetic forms. Finally, this focus on sulfur will make it possible to put the contemporary natural wine movement into perspective, pointing to a “silent history” of which this movement is in some way a resurgence.

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Against the Gain (of Sulfur): Wine Preservation and the Production of Viticulture and Winemaking Worlds in France Between the Nineteenth and the Twenty-First Centuries

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  • 发表日期：

    2025年

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  • Léo Mariani

摘要

This chapter discusses the rise of natural wines by focusing on sulfur—which they usually do not contain. As a tool for exercising control, sulfur enables stabilization, improves preservation and storage of wines. Drawing on the example of Vaucluse, in France, I show how these properties applied to wine facilitated the development of social hierarchies and particular forms of judgment during the Modern period. Then, I show that natural wines, which lack these qualities of stability, tend to encourage the development of very different economic, political and aesthetic forms. Finally, this focus on sulfur will make it possible to put the contemporary natural wine movement into perspective, pointing to a “silent history” of which this movement is in some way a resurgence.