An Unnatural History: The Political Invention of Natural Wine in Germany and Austria
摘要
This chapter explains the origins of the natural-wine movement in Germany by exploring the political and social developments that led to its creation. The spread of scientifically based and socially leveling winemaking knowledge, including deacidification and chaptalization, ignited a vehement response among powerful growers, spawning an ideological reaction that privileged natural processes over allegedly “artificial” techniques. This natural-wine movement’s origins are then contrasted with later manifestations, including in present-day Austria and Germany, where a concern for environmental sustainability and bodily health has prioritized non-interventionist strategies and zero additives. Despite these differences across time, the primacy of politics remains paramount. Devotees of natural wine past and present venerate largely fabricated traditions of purity over the advances of science, and they seek to upend perceived injustices, in the process staking claim to ostensibly virtuous production and consumption habits.