According to Maximize Market Research [1], the knitwear market is expected to grow up to a value of 156.80 billion USD by 2029. In Italy, it is one of the fastest-growing fields of Made in Italy, with an estimated increase of the production value of 18.5% [2], where technological innovation permeates all phases. Considering such conditions, based on desk research and analysis of relevant knitting machine producers operating in the context of Made in Italy, this paper provides a contemporary state of the art of knitwear, identifying the main trajectories of technological innovation which characterize it. After that, a re-design project of an archive garment in collaboration with Gianfranco Ferré Research Center is presented. Starting from a reverse engineering, which allowed to define areas of possible improvement, the project experimented the use of a thermoplastic yarn through a knit stitch development and its thermal activation. The Wholegarment seamless knitting technology was also explored, demonstrating how it can improve product design and manufacturing processes. The research shows the importance for knitwear designers to be highly specialized professional figures who have the responsibility of defining evolutional paths, exploring new production models through design practices and applying a cross-fertilization [3] of knowledge and skills.

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Knitwear and Technology. A Critical Analysis of the Contemporary

  • Diego Dani,
  • Giovanni Maria Conti

摘要

According to Maximize Market Research [1], the knitwear market is expected to grow up to a value of 156.80 billion USD by 2029. In Italy, it is one of the fastest-growing fields of Made in Italy, with an estimated increase of the production value of 18.5% [2], where technological innovation permeates all phases. Considering such conditions, based on desk research and analysis of relevant knitting machine producers operating in the context of Made in Italy, this paper provides a contemporary state of the art of knitwear, identifying the main trajectories of technological innovation which characterize it. After that, a re-design project of an archive garment in collaboration with Gianfranco Ferré Research Center is presented. Starting from a reverse engineering, which allowed to define areas of possible improvement, the project experimented the use of a thermoplastic yarn through a knit stitch development and its thermal activation. The Wholegarment seamless knitting technology was also explored, demonstrating how it can improve product design and manufacturing processes. The research shows the importance for knitwear designers to be highly specialized professional figures who have the responsibility of defining evolutional paths, exploring new production models through design practices and applying a cross-fertilization [3] of knowledge and skills.