Surfing originated with the Austronesian peoples and is most commonly associated with Hawai’i. It is estimated that there are now over 35 million surfers worldwide whose culture crosses societal norms and boundaries. Surfing is also big business generating billions of dollars in revenue and even more in health benefits for those who venture into the break. In this book, we explore all aspects of surfing from the physical forces that produce waves, and the landscapes of surf breaks, to the economics and culture that surrounds and emanates from surfing. This volume brings together leading academics to produce a unique cross-disciplinary perspective on what it is to surf and how surfing has changed our perception of the world.

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Introduction to the Science and Culture of Surfing

  • David M. Kennedy

摘要

Surfing originated with the Austronesian peoples and is most commonly associated with Hawai’i. It is estimated that there are now over 35 million surfers worldwide whose culture crosses societal norms and boundaries. Surfing is also big business generating billions of dollars in revenue and even more in health benefits for those who venture into the break. In this book, we explore all aspects of surfing from the physical forces that produce waves, and the landscapes of surf breaks, to the economics and culture that surrounds and emanates from surfing. This volume brings together leading academics to produce a unique cross-disciplinary perspective on what it is to surf and how surfing has changed our perception of the world.