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To complete what was presented in Chap. 9 , this chapter deals with the main aspects concerning the energy of surface gravity waves. The energy of a sinusoidal wave and the power spectral density of an irregular wave are analysed, the complex problem of the generation of surface waves by the atmosphere is briefly examined, and finally, the main aspects of the statistics of sea level and wave heights are illustrated.

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Surface Gravity Waves: Energy and Statistics

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  • 发表日期：

    2025年

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  • Stefano Pierini

摘要

To complete what was presented in Chap. 9 , this chapter deals with the main aspects concerning the energy of surface gravity waves. The energy of a sinusoidal wave and the power spectral density of an irregular wave are analysed, the complex problem of the generation of surface waves by the atmosphere is briefly examined, and finally, the main aspects of the statistics of sea level and wave heights are illustrated.