From Resale to Reuse: Does Second Cycle Shape Fashion Consumption Habits?

The rapidly growing transaction-focused secondhand market raises concerns about fostering a disposable mindset among fashion consumers. This chapter explores the secondhand fashion market in Finland and whether and how consumers’ active engagement in buying and selling of garments influences purchase orientation, the usage phase and disposal habits. The findings reveal that diverse secondhand marketplaces attract Finnish consumers with affordable offerings, convenient services, and experiential treasure hunting. The secondhand market accommodates diverse consumer orientations, which influence the frequency of purchase and disposal practices, as well as engagement with previously used products. Consumers are positioned on a continuum ranging from fashion-oriented wardrobe rotators, who constantly update their wardrobes, to style- and treasure-oriented quality seekers, who prioritise carefully selected investment pieces and extended product usage. While the study does not provide clear evidence of active involvement in the secondhand market shaping fashion consumption habits, it highlights that such engagement accelerates and intensifies existing practices. These findings call for a shift towards advocating for reuse rather than transaction-focused resale, which may accelerate garment circulation rather than intensified use of items.