The culture concept has acquired a multi-layered history since its initial Latin coinage tied to tilling or cultivating the soil (Kuper 1999). A foundational term for ethnographically working scholarly disciplines, “culture” has been used socially to discursively separate populations in terms of class from high to low culture—with the “cultivated” seeking to distinguish themselves not just in income but also in terms of taste (Bourdieu 2010 [1979]). A number of central paradigms for the analysis of culture have worked with foodways, be this structuralism (Lévi-Strauss 1964–1971), symbolism (Douglas 1966), or materialism (Harris 1977). The realm of cookery and cuisine has shown itself to be particularly prone to be linked with ethnic, national, and regional “culture” (Appadurai 1988), and in contrast to other facets of practice and consumption, the cultural affiliation in the culinary realm has often been grasped positively, in terms of both ownership and interest in appropriation. In the gustatory realm, the flexibility of the culture concept has been deployed politically and economically and thus rendered what is in principle an intangible practice into a valuable resource.

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Culture

  • Regina F. Bendix

摘要

The culture concept has acquired a multi-layered history since its initial Latin coinage tied to tilling or cultivating the soil (Kuper 1999). A foundational term for ethnographically working scholarly disciplines, “culture” has been used socially to discursively separate populations in terms of class from high to low culture—with the “cultivated” seeking to distinguish themselves not just in income but also in terms of taste (Bourdieu 2010 [1979]). A number of central paradigms for the analysis of culture have worked with foodways, be this structuralism (Lévi-Strauss 1964–1971), symbolism (Douglas 1966), or materialism (Harris 1977). The realm of cookery and cuisine has shown itself to be particularly prone to be linked with ethnic, national, and regional “culture” (Appadurai 1988), and in contrast to other facets of practice and consumption, the cultural affiliation in the culinary realm has often been grasped positively, in terms of both ownership and interest in appropriation. In the gustatory realm, the flexibility of the culture concept has been deployed politically and economically and thus rendered what is in principle an intangible practice into a valuable resource.