Traditional Food
摘要
In line with a trend of patrimonialization of cultural goods, in globalized and industrialized societies ‘traditional food’ is commonly seen as part of the intangible cultural heritage, often perceived as something to preserve and maintain. A narrative of authenticity is commonly used to portray culinary cultures, emphasizing the links between traditional food and local raw materials, the generational transmission of knowledge, and a strong connection with the territory. In the plurality of studies and approaches to food, anthropology is capable of showing the diversity and complexity of what is labelled as ‘traditional food’, pointing to the difficulties in delimiting geographies, identities and practices in a globalized world, since our societies are constantly on the move. A focus on food and migration, for instance, demonstrates that what is called ‘tradition’ is always re-created and re-shaped by social actors based on their experiences in the past as well in new cultural contexts.