Management and Pilgrims’ Encounters with the State in Contemporary Indonesia (2013–2021)

This chapter explores hajj travel by pilgrims from Indonesia, which is home to the world’s largest Muslim population. The author draws on firsthand ethnographic insights from two distinct regions, namely Madura Island and Central Java. After summarizing the treatment of the hajj in Indonesian historiography, the author proceeds to juxtapose hajj travel in the past with present-day practices, highlighting continuity in terms of state-led bureaucratization, commercialization, and promotion of the pilgrimage. Despite regional differences, the comprehensive management of the hajj as a large-scale event remains a source of national pride. Prospective pilgrims receive official guidance from the time they begin to plan their travel until their return from Mecca, including government advice on both spiritual and practical matters. Throughout the chapter, the Indonesian state’s approach to hajj management is primarily analyzed from a “bottom up” perspective, drawing on the opinions and experiences of ordinary pilgrims.