Economics of Circumfauna: A Fashion Case Study

This chapter explores “circumfauna,” the macroeconomic concept describing the growing shift across multiple industries toward bypassing animal inputs. Applying a political economy analysis, we use the global fashion industry as a case study to present the evidence of this phenomenon. We draw upon both historical and contemporary sources to understand the macro changes and economic incentives that are influencing firms to rethink the use of animals in production. We argue that the use of the term “circumfauna” can facilitate more transparent production strategies as it encompasses the vast and varied reasons for animals being removed from commodity chains. We emphasize the importance of distinguishing circumfauna from other terms, such as “vegan” and “cruelty-free,” as a trend that does not necessarily carry ethical or moral implications. We find that recent large-scale moves toward circumfauna production are broadly driven by motives to increase profits and mitigate risks. The chapter concludes by examining how economics, at its core, is a political argument, thereby challenging the assumption of economic inevitability and advocating for economic analysis that centers on profit and power. While circumfaunal innovation and processes are not immune to greenwashing or commodity fetishism, the continued trend of removing animals from supply chains can be symbiotic with efforts to create more equitable and sustainable global production networks.