Longing for the Dictator: The Case of Predappio

This chapter investigates the role of nostalgia in a space connected to the memory of Benito Mussolini: Predappio, the birthplace of the former dictator of Italy. In this little village, publicly known as the “Black Bethlehem”, nostalgia represents something more than simply a past-oriented emotion. One of the “man-made” towns of Italian Fascism, Predappio has gained attention internationally for its annual demonstrations by neo-fascists and nostalgic groups, and for the souvenir shops that brazenly sell fascist memorabilia. In this chapter, I investigate how many kinds of nostalgia are “performed” in the village, by looking at the contemporary practices conducted by Mussolini’s supporters. When and how can a traumatic memory, like the fascist dictatorship in Italy, be imbued with nostalgia, and spatialized accordingly? What patterns of knowledge and value-positioning are passed down in practices of nostalgic commemoration? To answer these questions, I posit that Predappio functions as a polyphonic space: to access the different degrees of nostalgia within the village, it is fundamental to consider each layer it proposes. As such, I study (i) the Mussolini family crypt, where the former “duce” is buried; (ii) Villa Carpena, also called Casa Ricordi (“House of Memories”): Mussolini’s old villa which is now a private museum; (iii) the souvenir shops mentioned above.