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How is food writing a means with which to document environmental change? Beginning with Jonathan Gold’s 2011 op-ed in the Los Angeles Times—“Shark fin soup: The taste of extinction”—this essay charts the environmental turn in American food writing. Like Gold’s piece, there are examples of articles that rally particular causes; others document and mourn loss that has already happened. This chapter considers how American food writing represents, activates, or seeks to preserve the environment by surveying the genre’s growing environmental consciousness. It looks at the work of M.F.K. Fisher, Michael Pollan, Frances Moore Lappé, and Jonathan Safran Foer. Unfolding in three parts, the first fleshes out food writing as a genre. Next it considers what I call the environmental turn in American food writing. To conclude, the chapter returns to food and extinction.

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“The Bitter Taste of Extinction”: Writing the Environmental Crisis Through Food

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  • 发表日期：

    2025年

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  • L. Sasha Gora

摘要

How is food writing a means with which to document environmental change? Beginning with Jonathan Gold’s 2011 op-ed in the Los Angeles Times—“Shark fin soup: The taste of extinction”—this essay charts the environmental turn in American food writing. Like Gold’s piece, there are examples of articles that rally particular causes; others document and mourn loss that has already happened. This chapter considers how American food writing represents, activates, or seeks to preserve the environment by surveying the genre’s growing environmental consciousness. It looks at the work of M.F.K. Fisher, Michael Pollan, Frances Moore Lappé, and Jonathan Safran Foer. Unfolding in three parts, the first fleshes out food writing as a genre. Next it considers what I call the environmental turn in American food writing. To conclude, the chapter returns to food and extinction.