Synthetic Dyeing Versus Natural Dyeing in India: A Life Cycle Costing Approach to Assess Regenerativeness

The objective of this study was to assess the regenerativeness of the two types of dyeing, i.e., synthetic and natural. It involved determining the cost of synthetic dyeing and natural dyeing by taking into consideration the various conventional—as well as unaccounted-for or hidden—environmental costEnvironmental cost components. While the general view has been that natural dyed fabrics are more expensive than synthetic dyed fabrics, the study started with the premise that synthetic dyeing will be more costly than natural dyeing if the cost of environment pollution, ill health, and other socialSocial-cultural costs from an ecosystemic and lifecycle cost frameworkFramework were included. The study was conducted in five phases over a period of about 27 months. The study included visits to several artisan clusters, dye manufacturers, textile dyeing-centres, effluent treatment units, governmentGovernment departments (including the Central Pollution Control Board and the National Chemical Labratories), and many other agencies across India. Based on the empirical data collected from the various experts in natural dyeing, synthetic dyeing, and environmentalEnvironmental pollution control, the comparison between the two types of dyeing, i.e., industrial and natural, was carried out. In the final analysis, the study finds that the overall cost of synthetic dyeing and natural dyeing are largely comparable. For yellow and blue shades, natural dyeing is cheaper than synthetic dyeing and for red and black shades, synthetic dyeing is cheaper than natural dyeing. It is also estimated that the environmental costEnvironmental cost, cost of ill-health due to air pollution, land degradationDegradation and other social costsSocial cost are very high for synthetic dyeing at current prices of treatment and disposal. The hidden cost of air, water and land pollution associated with synthetic dyeing will gradually make synthetic dyeing extremely expensive for society at large. The study therefore suggests less use of dyes at the first instance, facilitating awareness on the limitations of synthetic dyeing, and promoting usage of natural dyeing; and recommends investments in research and development of natural dyeing processes and technologiesTechnology as well as training of artisans. It is also very important that environmental policiesEnvironmental policy ensure a limit over harvesting of natural dyeNatural dye material for natural dyeing in an ecosystemEcosystem, depending on its geography and vegetation cover.