Hiding in Plain Sight: Transparency and Ethics in Fashion Industry Global Value Chains

This chapter contributes to understanding the institutional evolutions necessary to achieve SDG8, by investigating the extensive transparency databases which have recently emerged in the fashion sector and exploring the extent to which they can illuminate and improve the ethical performance of fashion global value chains (GVCs). We analyse whether, and how, data on the three key characteristics of transparency—factory lists, production conditions and purchasing practices—can illuminate the core aspects of ethical trade defined by civil society actors and the International Labour Organisation (ILO). We find that, while evolving transparency initiatives in fashion are important, they will not, in themselves significantly advance working conditions and wages. Our findings underline the need for a better combination of stronger regulation and transparency to secure the shifts required to support the achievement of SDG8.