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<p>This paper presents a small-scale field investigation into the evolution of surface gravity waves propagating above relatively steep bed slopes (<InlineEquation ID="IEq1"> <EquationSource Format="TEX">\(1/10-1/5\)</EquationSource> </InlineEquation>) from deep waters to the shallowest threshold of intermediate water. The measurements were conducted at the Natural Ocean Engineering Laboratory (NOEL). The study analyzes diverse sea states to determine the influence of sea-state steepness and effective water depth (<InlineEquation ID="IEq2"> <EquationSource Format="TEX">\(k_pd\)</EquationSource> </InlineEquation>) on wave profiles and statistics. The results show a clear transition in wavefield properties: spectra narrow and peak in intermediate depths (<InlineEquation ID="IEq3"> <EquationSource Format="TEX">\(0.9&lt;k_pd &lt;2.0\)</EquationSource> </InlineEquation>) before significant energy dissipates in shallower water due to breaking (<InlineEquation ID="IEq4"> <EquationSource Format="TEX">\(0.5&lt;k_pd&lt;0.9\)</EquationSource> </InlineEquation>). While extreme waves in deeper water (<InlineEquation ID="IEq5"> <EquationSource Format="TEX">\(0.9&lt;k_pd &lt;4.5\)</EquationSource> </InlineEquation>) exhibit shapes consistent with quasi-determinism theory, wave profiles in shallow water (<InlineEquation ID="IEq6"> <EquationSource Format="TEX">\(0.5&lt;k_pd&lt;0.9\)</EquationSource> </InlineEquation>), evolve toward solitary wave trains, indicating a transition where frequency dispersion does not dominate the regime anymore. The analysis of wave height distributions shows that modern formulations perform robustly in intermediate depths, but all models struggle with the steepest, shallowest conditions where nonlinearity and breaking compete intensely.</p>

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The evolution of gravity waves as they propagate into shallower water: a field experiment

  • 期刊论文

  • 出版模式：

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  • 发表日期：

    2026年4月3日

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  • George Spiliotopoulos,
  • Vanessa Katsardi,
  • Vincenzo Fiamma,
  • Carlo Ruzzo,
  • Alessandra Romolo,
  • Felice Arena

摘要

This paper presents a small-scale field investigation into the evolution of surface gravity waves propagating above relatively steep bed slopes ( \(1/10-1/5\) ) from deep waters to the shallowest threshold of intermediate water. The measurements were conducted at the Natural Ocean Engineering Laboratory (NOEL). The study analyzes diverse sea states to determine the influence of sea-state steepness and effective water depth ( \(k_pd\) ) on wave profiles and statistics. The results show a clear transition in wavefield properties: spectra narrow and peak in intermediate depths ( \(0.9<k_pd <2.0\) ) before significant energy dissipates in shallower water due to breaking ( \(0.5<k_pd<0.9\) ). While extreme waves in deeper water ( \(0.9<k_pd <4.5\) ) exhibit shapes consistent with quasi-determinism theory, wave profiles in shallow water ( \(0.5<k_pd<0.9\) ), evolve toward solitary wave trains, indicating a transition where frequency dispersion does not dominate the regime anymore. The analysis of wave height distributions shows that modern formulations perform robustly in intermediate depths, but all models struggle with the steepest, shallowest conditions where nonlinearity and breaking compete intensely.