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<p>This study presents a comprehensive evaluation of eco-functional knitted fabrics through the novel integration of functional Umorfil<sup>®</sup> filament yarns—polyamide-based (PA) and polyester-based (PET)— in combination with bio-based staple fibers (cotton, viscose, Refibra, and hemp), all fed within a single course. Unlike conventional layer-based or plaited structures, this method enables the simultaneous distribution of hydrophilic and hydrophobic components across fabric width, aiming to enhance thermo-physiological comfort and ultraviolet (UV) protection. Four distinct knitted structures rib, half milan, pique, and full milan were produced, and their performances were assessed through air permeability, water vapor permeability, vertical wicking, bending rigidity, and Ultraviolet Protection Factor (UPF) analyses.</p><p>To identify the most balanced and high-performing fabric, a multi-response desirability-based optimization framework was applied. The analysis revealed clear performance hierarchies: Umorfil-PET exhibited the highest overall desirability among filament types, driven by its superior contributions to wicking behavior, rigidity, and UV protection. Among staple fibers, viscose achieved the highest desirability, followed by cotton, while Refibra/hemp blends showed reduced desirability owing to limited UV shielding. Fabric structure also played a decisive role: rib fabrics delivered the highest overall desirability, outperforming other architectures due to their open-loop geometry and enhanced moisture transport. Holistic optimization further highlighted substantial contrasts between the best and worst configurations. The optimal fabric solution consisting of Umorfil-PET combined with a cotton/hemp blend in a rib structure achieved a weighted Combined Desirability Index (CDI) of 0.746, demonstrating balanced excellence across all comfort and protection metrics, including air and vapor permeability, wicking height and capacity, rigidity and UV performance.</p><p>Overall, this work introduces an innovative pathway for producing sustainable, performance-oriented knitted fabrics suitable for next-to-skin and sun-protective applications, contributing to environmentally responsible design in line with Sustainable Development Goal 12.</p>

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Multi-Response Optimization of Bio-Based Knitted Fabrics for Moisture Management and UV Protection

  • 期刊论文

  • 发表日期：

    2026年6月24日

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  • Sena Ci̇mi̇lli̇ Duru,
  • Cevza Candan,
  • Banu Nergi̇s,
  • Caner Erden

摘要

This study presents a comprehensive evaluation of eco-functional knitted fabrics through the novel integration of functional Umorfil® filament yarns—polyamide-based (PA) and polyester-based (PET)— in combination with bio-based staple fibers (cotton, viscose, Refibra, and hemp), all fed within a single course. Unlike conventional layer-based or plaited structures, this method enables the simultaneous distribution of hydrophilic and hydrophobic components across fabric width, aiming to enhance thermo-physiological comfort and ultraviolet (UV) protection. Four distinct knitted structures rib, half milan, pique, and full milan were produced, and their performances were assessed through air permeability, water vapor permeability, vertical wicking, bending rigidity, and Ultraviolet Protection Factor (UPF) analyses.

To identify the most balanced and high-performing fabric, a multi-response desirability-based optimization framework was applied. The analysis revealed clear performance hierarchies: Umorfil-PET exhibited the highest overall desirability among filament types, driven by its superior contributions to wicking behavior, rigidity, and UV protection. Among staple fibers, viscose achieved the highest desirability, followed by cotton, while Refibra/hemp blends showed reduced desirability owing to limited UV shielding. Fabric structure also played a decisive role: rib fabrics delivered the highest overall desirability, outperforming other architectures due to their open-loop geometry and enhanced moisture transport. Holistic optimization further highlighted substantial contrasts between the best and worst configurations. The optimal fabric solution consisting of Umorfil-PET combined with a cotton/hemp blend in a rib structure achieved a weighted Combined Desirability Index (CDI) of 0.746, demonstrating balanced excellence across all comfort and protection metrics, including air and vapor permeability, wicking height and capacity, rigidity and UV performance.

Overall, this work introduces an innovative pathway for producing sustainable, performance-oriented knitted fabrics suitable for next-to-skin and sun-protective applications, contributing to environmentally responsible design in line with Sustainable Development Goal 12.