Experimental Validation of an Enhanced Serre–Green–Naghdi Model for Wave Transformation and Breaking in the Nearshore Zone
摘要
A one-dimensional numerical model based on enhanced Serre–Green–Naghdi equations is presented and validated against a broad set of laboratory experiments of nearshore wave transformation, breaking, and run-up on slopes. The model uses a hybrid finite volume/finite difference numerical scheme with high-order MUSCL-type reconstructions, a hydrostatic reconstruction for well-balancedness and positivity of the water depth, and a third-order strong-stability-preserving Runge–Kutta time integration. Wave breaking is modelled via an eddy viscosity approach based on a depth-integrated one-equation turbulence model for the turbulent kinetic energy. The model is validated against five sets of laboratory experiments covering the shoaling, breaking, and run-up of different types of waves: solitary, regular, and irregular waves. Bed profiles with gentle or mild plane slopes, as well as steep fringing reef profiles, are considered. The validation dataset encompasses both spilling and plunging breaker types. The model demonstrates its ability to accurately reproduce not only detailed wave characteristics (wave shoaling, breaking point location, spectrum transformation, wave height decay in the surf zone, nonlinear wave shape statistics, and high-order statistical moments of the free surface elevation), but also the variations of the mean water level (wave set-down and set-up), the generation and propagation of infragravity waves, and the run-up on the beach slope.