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<p>Salt marshes are recognized as nature-based solutions for coastal defense due to their capacity to attenuate waves, reduce storm surges, and adapt to sea level rise. When combined with grey infrastructure like dykes, these hybrid systems significantly enhance coastal resilience. However, dykes positioned too close to shoreline can promote water accumulation on their seaward side, increasing overtopping risk. Relocating the dyke landward creates marsh area in front, improving wave and surge dissipation. While the protective role of marshes under storm surge has been studied, the combined effects of wind waves and setup during tropical cyclones are not well understood. To address this gap, we used the Delft3D hydrodynamic-wave model to simulate hurricane-scale storms in an idealized back-barrier system. We analyzed how dyke retreat distance, slope of the dereclaimed area, and storm features affect wave height and wind setup at the dyke. Our results show that marshes can dissipate wave energy when the peak wind of the storm passes outside the system, but this effect disappears when the peak wind is inside the basin, making wind setup dominant. Dyke retreat and steeper slopes reduce wave height but increase wind setup. We also found that wind setup is inversely related to inlet surge for the same wind forcing. The most extreme flooding occurs from specific combinations of wind setup, wave intensity, and surge, not necessarily from the largest inlet surge alone. Finally, we used a genetic algorithm to develop formulas for fast wave height (MAE = 0.09&#xa0;m, R²=0.89) and wind setup (MAE = 0.34&#xa0;m, R²=0.84) calculation.</p>

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Influence of Dereclaimed Area Morphology and Tropical Cyclone Characteristics on Wind Waves and Wind Setup in Back-Barrier Systems

  • 期刊论文

  • 发表日期：

    2026年7月27日

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  • Daniele Pinton,
  • Jinhyung Lee,
  • Alberto Canestrelli

摘要

Salt marshes are recognized as nature-based solutions for coastal defense due to their capacity to attenuate waves, reduce storm surges, and adapt to sea level rise. When combined with grey infrastructure like dykes, these hybrid systems significantly enhance coastal resilience. However, dykes positioned too close to shoreline can promote water accumulation on their seaward side, increasing overtopping risk. Relocating the dyke landward creates marsh area in front, improving wave and surge dissipation. While the protective role of marshes under storm surge has been studied, the combined effects of wind waves and setup during tropical cyclones are not well understood. To address this gap, we used the Delft3D hydrodynamic-wave model to simulate hurricane-scale storms in an idealized back-barrier system. We analyzed how dyke retreat distance, slope of the dereclaimed area, and storm features affect wave height and wind setup at the dyke. Our results show that marshes can dissipate wave energy when the peak wind of the storm passes outside the system, but this effect disappears when the peak wind is inside the basin, making wind setup dominant. Dyke retreat and steeper slopes reduce wave height but increase wind setup. We also found that wind setup is inversely related to inlet surge for the same wind forcing. The most extreme flooding occurs from specific combinations of wind setup, wave intensity, and surge, not necessarily from the largest inlet surge alone. Finally, we used a genetic algorithm to develop formulas for fast wave height (MAE = 0.09 m, R²=0.89) and wind setup (MAE = 0.34 m, R²=0.84) calculation.