Against the Grain? Authenticity and the Craft Alcohol Industry

Scholars contend that craft spirit makers communicate authenticity by emphasizing their passion for and commitment to tradition and by downplaying self-interest and profit. However, the presence of large corporations has made it more difficult for consumers to distinguish “true” artisanal values and methods from imitators. The lucrative craft spirit market has exposed the susceptibility of authenticity, which is often thought to be a distinguishing feature between craft and industrial firms. Drawing on the analysis of semi-structured interviews with distillers and craft industry actors, fieldwork at craft distilleries and state alcohol commission meetings, and the content of company materials, we explore how, and, with what consequence, distillers account for and respond to the obstacles associated with authenticity. In navigating internal and external constraints, distillers are forced to make accommodations that comply with consumer expectations and regulatory policies. As we show, assumptions about authenticity and craft as “good” inhibit craft distillers’ creativity and hamper their ability to express an authentic identity on their own terms.