Wave Propagation and Bottom Deformation in the Coastal Zone of the Sea Within the Framework of the Nonlinear Dispersion Theory of Shallow Water
摘要
Within the framework of the nonlinear dispersion theory of shallow water, a technique and a computer program were developed to model wave propagation in the sea coastal zone. The study took into account wave breaking in the presence of heterogeneous bottom topography and wave-permeable hydraulic structures. The article provides examples of calculations.