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<p>Ocean swells play major roles in modulating wave climates, air-sea interactions, and ocean engineering activities. Despite its importance, there is a limited number of in-depth studies on swell in the semi-enclosed Caribbean Sea (CS) and open Western Atlantic (AO). To overcome this limitation, a third-generation wave model and buoy observations from 2010 to 2019 are employed to study the spatiotemporal characteristics of swell. Results illustrate that in the winter, swell wave heights can reach ~ 1&#xa0;m in the AO which gradually decreases to &lt; 0.3&#xa0;m on windward Lucayan Archipelago coastlines. A similar case occurs for the CS, except for over the Nicaraguan Rise which strongly refracts swell leading to heights of 1.2–1.4&#xa0;m, and a swell energy weight (SEW) of ~ 0.5. The percentage of swell to wind waves in the AO (21– 35%) is much larger than in the CS (20– 27%). The influence of hurricanes on swell within the CS was also examined using Hurricane Matthew (2016) as an example. Over three days, the system could more than double the SEW from &lt; 0.3 to &gt; 0.7. Observations showed that 12–14&#xa0;s period swell propagated over 1200&#xa0;km from the central to the northwestern CS in the Yucatan Basin.</p>

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An investigation of swell in the western Atlantic Ocean and Caribbean Sea

  • 期刊论文

  • 发表日期：

    2025年5月10日

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  • Brandon J. Bethel,
  • Changming Dong,
  • Jin Wang,
  • Yuhan Cao

摘要

Ocean swells play major roles in modulating wave climates, air-sea interactions, and ocean engineering activities. Despite its importance, there is a limited number of in-depth studies on swell in the semi-enclosed Caribbean Sea (CS) and open Western Atlantic (AO). To overcome this limitation, a third-generation wave model and buoy observations from 2010 to 2019 are employed to study the spatiotemporal characteristics of swell. Results illustrate that in the winter, swell wave heights can reach ~ 1 m in the AO which gradually decreases to < 0.3 m on windward Lucayan Archipelago coastlines. A similar case occurs for the CS, except for over the Nicaraguan Rise which strongly refracts swell leading to heights of 1.2–1.4 m, and a swell energy weight (SEW) of ~ 0.5. The percentage of swell to wind waves in the AO (21– 35%) is much larger than in the CS (20– 27%). The influence of hurricanes on swell within the CS was also examined using Hurricane Matthew (2016) as an example. Over three days, the system could more than double the SEW from < 0.3 to > 0.7. Observations showed that 12–14 s period swell propagated over 1200 km from the central to the northwestern CS in the Yucatan Basin.