<p>This review aims to provide an overview of laboratory models of nearshore morphodynamics, focusing specifically on the role of wave action. In this context, shoreline evolution is driven by the direction of sediment flux induced by wave dynamics, corresponding to erosion or accretion processes. These processes, which naturally modify the shape of coastlines, are influenced by factors such as sediment availability, wave climate, and soil strength, among others. Starting from unconsolidated sandy materials and the equilibrium-based concepts used in natural beach classification, the reanalysis of laboratory experiments shows that they can reproduce natural conditions and serve as conceptual models for understanding nearshore morphodynamics. However, the temporal evolution of the shoreline and the source of available sand are difficult to capture through equilibrium-type physical processes and therefore requires a specific focus on localized zones of the nearshore, depending on the prevailing hydrodynamics and sediment strength, i.e., consolidation. Accordingly, the local dynamics near the shoreline are closely linked to the behavior of the swash zone and to cliff erosion processes, which constitute a central focus of this review from a laboratory experiment perspective.</p>

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Experimental insights into cross-shore morphodynamics of beaches and cliffs

  • Laurent Lacaze,
  • Dominique Astruc,
  • Frédéric Moulin

摘要

This review aims to provide an overview of laboratory models of nearshore morphodynamics, focusing specifically on the role of wave action. In this context, shoreline evolution is driven by the direction of sediment flux induced by wave dynamics, corresponding to erosion or accretion processes. These processes, which naturally modify the shape of coastlines, are influenced by factors such as sediment availability, wave climate, and soil strength, among others. Starting from unconsolidated sandy materials and the equilibrium-based concepts used in natural beach classification, the reanalysis of laboratory experiments shows that they can reproduce natural conditions and serve as conceptual models for understanding nearshore morphodynamics. However, the temporal evolution of the shoreline and the source of available sand are difficult to capture through equilibrium-type physical processes and therefore requires a specific focus on localized zones of the nearshore, depending on the prevailing hydrodynamics and sediment strength, i.e., consolidation. Accordingly, the local dynamics near the shoreline are closely linked to the behavior of the swash zone and to cliff erosion processes, which constitute a central focus of this review from a laboratory experiment perspective.